Las Apujarras Region
Las Alpujarras are a very special and beautiful region of Spain, where the interrelationship of geography, ecology and history of human settlement is unique. They make a wonderful and memorable area for walking, cycling, mountain trekking or horse riding.
This region, once very inaccessible, is now easily approached by car and most of the holiday properties on the http://www.rentcostatropical.com are within one hour’s journey away.
In Granada province Las Alpujarras consist of a system of deep and majestic river valleys south of the usually snow capped Sierra Nevada mountains (the highest in Europe after the Alps) and separated from the coast by the lower sierras of Lujar, Contraviesa and Gador. The principal valley runs some 50km east-west, containing the Rio Cadiar, flowing westward into the Rio Guadalfeo, which finally reaches the Mediterranean between Motril and Salobrena. The high Poqueira and Trevelez tributaries have cut spectacular ravines into the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada. The region also spreads eastward into Almeria province, where the landscape becomes more open and arid, eventually merging with the desert north of Almeria city.
The upper Alpujarra of Granada province are well watered year round from the Sierra Nevada, and over the centuries this has allowed a rich and varied agriculture to develop. Typically at 1200 metres above sea level, chestnut and walnut woodland, terraced hillsides of almond, cherry, olive, orange, lemon and vine stand in contrast to the more arid landscapes of lower altitudes.
While there is evidence of human settlement going back at least 2000 years to the Visigoths, it is the Berbers and Moors from about the 11th century onward that made this area unique in Europe in its pattern of settlement. Berbers first populated the area as refugees from Seville, followed by the Moors in the 15th century fleeing the Christian re-invasion of Granada. This was the last enclave of the Moors in Spain before they were totally banished in the 16th century, when Philip II forcibly populated the Alpujarra with Spanish from Galicia and Asturias. Even then, two Muslim families from each village had to remain, since only they had the knowledge of how to operate the intricate irrigation system, built over generations, of channels or acequias, that carried the rainwater and melted snow from the mountains to the valley farms. The area at that time must have seemed like a green oasis of rich agriculture in strong contrast to the barren surroundings. Numerous villages prospered in the production of exclusive silk for selling in Almeria, and some of the mulberry fields on which the silkworms were kept are to be seen to this day. The irrigation system was an amazing feat of engineering for its time, some 800 kms remain today with much still in use.
After the final eviction of the Moors right until the end of Franco’s era in the 1970’s the area fell into deep economic decline. Gerald Brenan, a World War I veteran and fringe member of the Bloomsbury Group, came to live here in the 1920’s at Yegen, and his book ‘South from Granada’ describes a way of life little changed from mediaeval times. Even in the early ‘80s, this was the poorest area in all Spain, living standards being comparable with third world levels.
In recent times, the area has improved economically, partly due to an inflow of English and other north Europeans settling here to make a slightly ‘alternative’ way of life in the sun. Best known perhaps is Chris Stewart, who in his best selling books ‘Driving over Lemons’ and ‘A Parrot in a Pepper Tree’ describes the life of his family and Spanish neighbours in re-building a farm not far from Orgiva.
Of the original four hundred or so, some seventy Berber and Moorish villages remain in the region. Their architectural style is to be found nowhere else in Spain, being almost identical to those in the Rif and Atlas Mountains of Morocco. Thick stone walled, and generally low flat roofed, finished in launa (a compressed mud made from the local clay) and with characteristic circular chimneys, the style is a clear response to the geography and climate. Another unusual feature are the tinaos, upper level bridges that link one house to another. Originally in bare stone, most are now whitewashed, which makes the villages look less dour than some of their Moroccan counterparts.
Principal access to the area by road is via either Lanjaron or Velez Benaudalla (near the massive new Rules dam), off the main road between Motril and Granada city. A more adventurous route is from the coast near La Mamola up a magnificent, twisting mountain road high above the sea, signposted to Polopos. Winding up through terraced hillsides cultivated in almond and vine (from which Costa wine is made), in late afternoon it is sometimes possible to see the mountains of North Africa silhouetted in the sinking sun. The road continues up and over the Sierra de la Contraviesa and down into the main Alpujarra valley linking Orgiva to Cadiar.
The more visited towns and villages are the health spa of Lanjaron in the west, Orgiva the main market town, (Thursdays), then the high villages of Pampaneira, Bubion, and Capileira in the Poqueira gorge and Trevelez in the high valley of its namesake. These are now somewhat on the tourist trail, but still remain very attractive and peaceful. Perhaps the prettiest is Pampaneira, centred on its small church square, where one can relax at one of the alfresco restaurants, sampling the traditional cuisine such as ‘Plato Alpujarreno’ (ham eggs black pudding), choto in almond sauce, trout or patates povres. Trevelez is most famous for its production of air-cured mountain ham – Jamon Serrano, easily the equal of the best Prosciutto de Parma! This village claims to be the highest permanent settlement in Spain at 1476m, but only true because the boundary includes Mulhacen, the highest mountain in Spain.
The climate is cooler than down on the coast – the higher villages often get snow in winter, but the valleys can be hot in high summer. This is a region perhaps best experienced on foot, many hiking trails start from Pampaneira and many offer guided tours for walking, trekking, horse riding and information on skiing conditions. There is also a National Park Information Centre here. The more strenuous routes are up into the Sierra Nevada mountain national park. Here there are varieties of flora and fauna to be found nowhere else in Europe – with over fifty species of wild flower including rare varieties of blue gentians. Rare butterflies, wild goat, wild boar, hoopoe, golden eagle, buzzard, raven, bunting and warblers make this a very special area for wildlife spotting. Probably the best time of year for walking is late spring and early summer when many wild flowers are in bloom. Early autumn is also good, but high summer can be exhausting. Skiing in winter is possible from Capileira.
A less strenuous but still rewarding area to walk is in and around the Taja villages below Pampaneira. Scarcely visited, these hamlets have a far more authentic Berber appearance, although probably some too are now being discreetly restored by foreign residents. Walking trails on old cobbled mule paths by woodland streams and springs, across terraced hillsides of almond, cherry, mulberry or open cornfields connect the villages of Pitres, Mecinilla, Ferreirola, and Atelbeitar. Walking here offers peace and tranquillity in a sublime landscape that is simply a world away from the 21st century life on the Costas.
Acknowledgements and further references:
‘South from Granada’ by Gerald Brenan
‘Driving over Lemons’ and ‘A Parrot in a Pepper Tree’ by Chris Stewart
‘Sierra Nevada, la Alpujarra’ - Alpina Map and Tourist Guide
‘Alpujarras’ – A Discovery Walking Guide
‘Andalucia’ – The Rough Guide
‘Driving over Lemons’ and ‘A Parrot in a Pepper Tree’ by Chris Stewart
‘Sierra Nevada, la Alpujarra’ - Alpina Map and Tourist Guide
‘Alpujarras’ – A Discovery Walking Guide
‘Andalucia’ – The Rough Guide
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